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October's place to taste: De' Minimi, Italy
Don’t live in London? You’re in luck
Usually our monthly ‘place to taste’ is somewhere in London. Well, to all our out-of-towners, this month’s for you.
We’re heading to the Michelin star restaurant De' Minimi in Tropea, Calabria (not sure we said, but we went there last week).
While you may not be visiting Italy soon, this newsletter is worth your time as Fraser gets his knives out, talking about the current problem with fine-dining restos in the UK and why De' Minimi was such a good contrast.
Everything’s not fine
One minute you’re in your 20s, the next you’re comparing magnesium and melatonin supplements, paracetamol dosages, and what restaurants you went to recently.
In truth, right now I’m (Fraser) bored of fine-dining restaurants in the UK. They don’t have the same impact on me that they once did. It’s all a bit plain and same-y.
Maybe that’s just me growing up - their novelty wearing off - but recently I’ve found the experience falling short, especially given the price tags.
There’s still skill, no question.
When I went to Hélène Darroze at The Connaught (which has three Michelin stars) the dishes were technically very good but few woke you up with a punchy flavour or twist. In too many of these places, I’m rarely eager to return for specific dishes.
In comparison, you go to more informal places like Brat or Black Axe Mangal - where things are smoky, charred, salty and acidic - you put something in your mouth and you’re like ‘give me more immediately.’
Of course, there are some exceptions to my hating on fine dining.
Evelyn’s Table. I went a few years ago when Luke Selby was chef (he isn’t anymore) and it was ace. A Michelin star without the stiffness: hip hop playing, no tablecloths, and food that was on point.
The Ledbury. They’ve had a recent relaxed refit, the staff put you at ease, and you can actually laugh and feel comfortable (something rare in fine-dining spots where you think you can’t say anything and it’s all quite stale).
Paying a high price
The big context to the above is price.
At the age of 18, when I was really getting serious about food, London’s dining scene had a different vibe. A lot of one-star Michelin spots offered £30 three-course lunches which were both accessible and exciting.
Angela Hartnett’s Murano sticks out as the first place that really impressed me.
Side note: back around the 2010s, ex-Gordon Ramsay chefs (including Angela, Marcus Wareing, Jason Atherton and Mark Sargeant) were opening up smart dining rooms all over Mayfair thanks to Ramsay’s financial backing. They would then buy Ramsay’s stake back when they could afford to.
When I was a student (this would have been in about 2012), I went for lunch at Murano with my brother. Clearly we stood out amongst the Mayfair workers because a) we have better fashion sense and b) I was sporting an aggressive undercut hairstyle which was 10 years ahead of its time.
The restaurant director came over to our table.
‘How come you’re here?’
He didn’t ask in an arse-y way, just in a you-don’t-look-like-you’re-completing-a-million-pound-transaction-right-now kinda way. He said that Angela was in today and did we want to go and speak to her. We did.
Not long after that I began working at Murano.
My point, because I always have a point: there was an accessibile informality to these places. Now, Murano still does a 3-course lunch but it’s £60. Obviously prices go up, but that’s a big jump. If we raised the price of the Eat My Words newsletter in a similar way then you’d still be paying nothing. Let that sink in.
All of which leads us to our time in Tropea…
The skinny
De' Minimi is in a 12-bedroom hotel called Villa Paola, an old monastery just outside Tropea. Tucked away down a road that’s a bit too rustic to be intentional, there’s a lot to like about De' Minimi. Not least the pre-diner aperitivo on the terrace overlooking the sea as the sun goes down.
The vibe
The menu setup is slightly unconventional (read, confusing). There are 4, 5, 7 and 9-course menus to choose from, but actually you can also pick and mix dishes from any of the menus so long as both members of the party are having the same dish and the moon is shining to the left of the water.
The 4-course menu that we had was £70.
Yes we’re in Calabria (i.e. prices might be lower), but this is still a Michelin star place that could charge more if it wanted to. They don’t and they’re all the better for it.
The food
Very very good. Big flavours but refined, skilful cooking with great use of the grill and BBQ.
The canapés set the tone with interesting flavours and textures. Tasty bread too, with bread sticks infused with the local Tropea onion.
Sila trout, salted lemon, beetroot. All sorts of silky softness.
Lamb crépinette (basically a parcel/meatball shape), almond, pomegranate, BBQ carrot. The lack of picture denotes the success of this dish.
Calabrian black pork, orange, local beans, licorice and herbal bitters from their garden. Again, no pic.
Deconstructed tiramisu.
Much to the surprise and delight of dairy-free Ben, they said that this was all good for him to eat. Which he duly did. Afterwards, so enraptured by having tasted dessert for the first time in four years Ben asked: ‘how on earth do you do that without lactose?’
‘Well, we use mascarpone which is good as it has such a low lactose content that we don’t consider it dairy.’
Hmmm. Not the answer he was hoping for and, we pray, was just a case of lost in translation.
In a really nice touch, they then suggested we have coffee (yes to the bialetti) and piccola pasticceria (petit fours) back in the garden. Didn’t sleep all night but worth it.
Final thought
De' Minimi is kinda the vibe we’re going for with our supper/lunch club. Very good food, very great atmosphere. Looking after all those details that the Devil’s in without making a song and dance about it.
Final tickets available, and last plug from us, for tickets to December.
See you there,
F&B